Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and all of the oil in a Dutch oven over low-medium heat until melted. Add the scallions, carrots and celery and sauté over low-medium heat until very soft, stirring often. Break up the meat and add to the pot, add a small amount of salt and a pepper and stir until all the raw, pink color in the meat is gone. Add the tiniest amount of nutmeg. I take a whole nutmeg and simply swipe it over a very fine rasp-style grater right into the pot, maybe three or four swipes of the whole nutmeg.

Add the milk or half-and-half and bring to a simmer, stirring often, and cook until milk is evaporated. Add the wine and again, simmer until evaporated, stirring often. Use your hands to add the tomatoes to the pot, crushing them into very small pieces. Add all of the juice, too. Stir everything together well and bring to a very gentle simmer - barely a simmer - and leave uncovered. Cook at this very low heat for at least 2 hours. If too much liquid evaporates, you can add some small amounts of water as it cooks, stirring in well. Sometimes I cook this for 3 hours. Taste at the 2-hour mark and if the flavors have come together well, then you are done. Adjust seasoning if necessary. After cooling, the sauce may be refrigerated for up to 4 days in an airtight container, or even frozen for a month.

For serving, have the sauce hot and ready to go. Prepare pasta al dente, reserving some starchy pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta. Toss the pasta with butter, thicken the sauce with a little pasta water, and toss everything together very well. Serve immediately with Parmigiano-Reggiano for guests to add themselves.