Is the American dinner party an anachronism as well? As we dutifully order takeout or look up catering menus, change is bubbling just below the surface of our kitchens and living rooms. We are preparing to gather and connect in new and different ways.
In 2023, the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics released a report showing that households spent an all-time high amount on dining “food away from home.” As a culture, we have found new ways to navigate cooking at home intentionally.
This goes beyond convenience; it is about changing our social connection practices through providing a meal at home. A downward trend in home entertaining contributes to an already well-established crisis of social disconnection, which the U.S. Surgeon General has labeled an epidemic with profound health consequences.
Here are 15 almost-forgotten types of appetizers that tell us about life in America today.
The Classic Cheese Ball
An impressive mid-century party contribution, a gigantic log of cream cheese and shredded cheddar, rolled in nuts or parsley, has found its way into parody. It testified to make-ahead convenience and became a fun centerpiece for a party host who was dealing with frying, baking, and broiling at the same time.
Its demise has been the opposite of that of its trendy counterpart: the charcuterie board. This is not about taste, but rather an economic and labor shift. Putting together a cheese board feels like curation, rather than the act of making a cheese ball.
The U.S. specialty cheese market has experienced remarkable growth, as evidenced by a 2024 report from the Specialty Food Association, which indicates that it has more than doubled in size, evolving into a multi-billion-dollar category expanding at double-digit rates.
This suggests that consumers, through food, are opting to cloak the work and labor of doing the host’s work; it is changing from the style of proudly messy homemade cheese ball to
Rumaki
Back in the day, no hors d’oeuvre meant to evoke the tropics would be complete without the club-food classic: sweet and savoury bite-sized chicken liver and water chestnuts in bacon. Its history tells the story of America’s evolving tastes and a confident, yet ambivalent, attitude toward a particular kind of food: the offal kind.
The decline of rumaki reflects a significant drop in the consumption of offal in the United States. According to the USDA’s Economic Research Service, Americans now consume more ultra-processed foods and less organ meat than they did in the 1970s.
This decline can be attributed to several factors, including the dietary scares of the “cholesterol wars” of the 1980s and 1990s, which were often driven more by fear than by scientific evidence. Additionally, changing preferences regarding texture and taste among different generations have played a role.
Ironically, as rumaki has fallen out of favor, it has been largely replaced by authentic Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese cuisines, which offer a far more diverse and genuine representation of global flavors.
Savory Jell-O Molds
There are a few foods that evoke “the mid-20th century,” like these glossy, jiggly forms that hold within their wiggling jello-like state edible foodstuffs such as shredded carrots, olives, fish, and shrimp.
These aspics and terrines demonstrated some level of skill, domestic ambition, or both, while representing an aesthetic glory and functional pomp. The lessening of the savory aspic evokes a narrative about the roller coaster of modern-day processed foods.
Jell-O (Kraft Heinz) peaked alongside the trend toward heavily processed and canned foods, which were associated with safety and marked a new era of modernity. As grocery sales of shelf-stable gelatin products decline, there has been an increase in the sales of fresh produce and seafood.
However, proteins used in savory aspic, such as shrimp, have increased in value, and there is little benefit in confining them within tomato-flavored gelatin.
Clam Dip
Before hummus, salsa, and guacamole dominated the dip aisle, there was clam dip. Made of not much more than canned clams, cream cheese, and lemon juice, it was the salty, briny accompaniment to the ruffled potato chip at countless Super Bowl gatherings and family get-togethers.
Its path to oblivion is thanks to two words: market competition. The American dip shelf today is a multi-billion-dollar war zone. A new 2024 market research report shows that Mexican-style dips (salsa, queso, guacamole) maintain the largest market share, followed by hummus.
Clam dip is today a specialty item, if stocked at all. It also highlights a public health story.
The CDC continues to identify processed and canned foods as the most significant sources of excess sodium in the American diet, and public health messages are becoming stronger to encourage consumers to make informed ingredient choices, especially when selecting canned shellfish.
A 2023 study published in the Journal of Public Health discussed in detail the awareness of eating guidelines among nursing mothers, how they define what is ‘good’ food, and their buying behavior.
Little Smokies in Grape Jelly Sauce
This slow-cooker staple, little sausages with the polarizing flavors of grape jelly and chili sauce, was so characteristically American in its sweet-salty flavor and textures, and was also a tragic miracle of convenience that came with three ingredients and no cooking chops.
While there are dishes that fade from use because, naturally, generational differences are at play, this dish’s decline is directly related to the ever-increasing aversion to ultra-processed food. Little Smokies come from regularly identifiable processed meats, which the WHO has cited as causing other health problems.
Data continue to show a reduction in the consumption of traditional jellies and jams, as consumers opt for lower-sugar fruit spreads or refrain from purchasing them altogether.
Stuffed Celery
This simple appetizer, which features a celery stalk as a carrier for pimento cheese or cream cheese, is a crunchy, low-carb classic. It was a restaurant staple on relish trays, offering a light, fresh contrast to richer dishes.
Its diminishing presence on the table is a casualty of a culture of convenience snacking; after all, why would you stuff a celery stalk for your appetizers when you can go through the “pre” prepared stage and purchase a ready-made container of baby carrots and a tub of hummus?
The appearance of pre-portioned grab-and-go snacks is a category that has experienced a more than 30% increase since 2020, according to The Wall Street Journal. However, appetizers that require even a hint of effort feel like hard work.
While celery sales are still healthy, it is much more likely to find a celery stalk diced in your soup base or in a juice, rather than piled high on an appetizer platter.
Deviled Ham
That aggressively salty, fatty, and totally strange potted meat spread, discovered in the pantry from time to time, allowed you to spread it on a cracker in an instant. What followed was a shift towards branding and transparency, with trust being broken down or evolving.
It was primarily comprised of “mechanically separated poultry” and sometimes other processed pork products, or at least what is defined as such. “Mechanically separated poultry” and “processed pork” immediately raise red flags with end consumers.
According to a 2022 report by the Food Industry Association (FMI) and NielsenIQ, the demand for transparency from food manufacturers remained high.
The report, “Transparency in an Evolving Omnichannel World,” revealed that two-thirds of shoppers (64%) would switch from their usual brand to one that provides more in-depth product information beyond standard nutrition facts.
Who wants to buy a brand built on mystery meat when there are so many brands out there that have been certified organic, certified free-range, and minimally processed?
Angels on Horseback
Angels on Horseback is a classic British pub snack that enjoyed a brief period of fame in the U.S.; it consists of an oyster wrapped in bacon and broiled. They are representative of a type of simple, briny pleasure that has nearly become extinct.
The appetizer has two problems: its cost and whether consumers feel comfortable consuming bivalves. Oyster prices have been inconsistent and affected by climate change and marine diseases, according to a 2023 NOAA Fisheries report, so oysters have become a costly casual appetizer.
Despite the popularity of raw oyster bars, a 2022 survey published in the Journal of Food Science revealed that a majority of the population feels uncomfortable preparing and eating shellfish at home due to concerns about food safety and the difficulty of preparation, which particularly affects foodservice operators.
Liver Pâté
Pâté, a silky, decadently rich spread of chicken or goose liver, was the sophisticated hostess’s ticket to a European feel for the party. Paired with cornichons and good bread, it was a nod to an elevated, continental sensibility. Pâté, like rumaki, suffers because American palates tend not to favor liver.
To add insult to injury, pâté is under siege by plant-based impostors. The plant-based dips and spreads market has experienced significant growth, as highlighted in a 2024 report from Food Business News, posting double-digit annual growth fueled by vegan or “flexitarian” consumers.
Mushroom pâté, lentil pâté, or any other vegetable-based spread are now occupying grocery store and menu space that was once reserved for liver.
Shrimp Toast
These deep-fried triangles of bread, topped with shrimp paste, were a staple of early American Chinese restaurants and a popular, if greasy, homemade party snack. Shrimp toast has been a victim of both evolving health norms and the diversification of Asian cuisine in America.
The deep-fried nature of the dish runs counter to prevailing dietary trends. A long-term CDC study, with data updated into 2023, consistently shows a correlation between consumption of fried foods and poor cardiovascular outcomes.
Simultaneously, as American palates have become more sophisticated, the demand for more authentic and regional Asian appetizers, such as fresh spring rolls, steamed dumplings, or edamame, has completely eclipsed the retro, Americanized appeal of shrimp toast.
Swedish Meatballs in Grape Jelly Sauce
The cocktail-sized version of this IKEA cafeteria classic, often simmered in the same grape jelly and chili sauce concoction as Little Smokies, was a ubiquitous presence in chafing dishes nationwide. The story here is one of sugar.
The average American’s awareness of added sugars has skyrocketed, thanks in large part to updated FDA labeling requirements implemented in recent years. A sauce made primarily of jelly is a non-starter for many health-conscious hosts.
A 2024 Gallup poll on nutrition confirmed that “reducing sugar” is now the top dietary concern for American adults, surpassing fat and carbohydrate reduction. The dish’s identity is so tied to this sugary sauce that it has been unable to adapt.
Stuffed Mushrooms
Mushrooms, stuffed with a paste of breadcrumbs, garlic, and cheese, were once a staple of the passed appetizer tray. If you have ever indulged in a stuffed mushroom, you know they can be delicious, savory, satisfying, and easy to prepare in larger batches.
The decline of stuffed mushrooms is a culinary tale of change and progress. While the entire mushroom is more popular than ever, the Agricultural Marketing Resource Center (AMRC) shows a consistent upward trend in per capita consumption; however, the original stuffed mushroom with breadcrumbs feels heavy.
The current incarnation of stuffed mushrooms features fillings such as spinach and artichoke, crab, or even plant-based sausage mixes.
Contemporary stuffed mushrooms reflect the general trend away from hot hors d’oeuvre options that utilize carb-heavy pastes for stuffing; have we cooked the original incarnation out of existence?
Pickled Herring
In certain parts of the country with strong Scandinavian or German heritage, a plate of pickled herring in cream sauce, accompanied by crackers or rye bread, was a standard holiday appetizer. It was a pungent, assertive flavor from another era. The challenge for pickled herring is a generational one.
It is a flavor profile that is deeply rooted in tradition but has failed to attract younger consumers.
Data from the National Marine Fisheries Service indicate that while consumption of fresh and frozen fish, such as salmon and tuna, has increased, the market for preserved fish, like herring, has been in a steady decline over the past few decades.
It’s a taste that, for the most part, has not been passed down, representing a fading connection to specific European culinary traditions.
Olive Penguins
An exercise in pure whimsy, these tiny penguins were constructed from two olives (one for the body, one for the head), a smear of cream cheese for the chest, and a sliver of carrot for the beak and feet. They were pure, edible craft. The Olive Penguin is a victim of our changing relationship with time and domestic labor.
It is a fussy, time-consuming appetizer with a low reward-to-effort ratio. A 2023 report from the Bureau of Labor Statistics on time use found that Americans, particularly women, are spending less time on food preparation than in previous decades.
The kind of patient, decorative food crafting represented by the Olive Penguin has been replaced by a demand for high-impact, low-effort results, precisely the niche filled by the artfully scattered olives on a charcuterie board.
Fondue
The communal pot of melted cheese, a craze of the 1970s, represented a new approach to entertaining: it transformed the appetizer into an interactive experience. The fondue’s fall is associated with the death of the dinner party as an event, and the rise of the “grazing.”
While food presentation in entertainment is somewhat fluid now, it often spans a multi-hour window. A pot of fondue also has the added stipulation of requiring everyone to gather at the same point at the same time, which feels very constraining in a time of casual mingling.
There were also health and hygiene cautions that have made many even more wary of dipping communally from the same vessel in a post-pandemic world.
A 2022 survey by the market research company Datassential found that a plurality of diners preferred individual portions to share food at group meals, which runs counter to the very sensibility that fondue is designed to provide.
Key Takeaways
The cocktail relics (cheese balls, rumaki, aspics, collages, etc.) are not just cheesy recipes; they are data.
They are markers of our growing distance from convenience- and mass-produced products; they are markers of our growing awareness of products from around the world; they are markers of our health concerns; they are markers of the inescapable economic constraints that have shifted how we celebrate gatherings of people.
If we reflect on these lost hors d’oeuvres once we have reported on the story of every dish, we see that there is more than just nostalgic value in these fun, old eats. They represent a way of honouring our lineage and communal identity. How we eat, as well as how we do not eat, gives us strong clues about who we are.
Next time you put out a platter of appetizers, think of it as taking little snapshots of our shared human experience and history, one bite at a time!
Disclaimer: This list is solely the author’s opinion based on research and publicly available information. It is not intended to be professional advice.
Disclosure: This article was developed with the assistance of AI and was subsequently reviewed, revised, and approved by our editorial team.
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